Scout the route, put your helmet on, and begin a Palau 4 traverse from the right of the notch and ridge crest. Scramble the third faintly visible ramp with a bit of loose rock back left to a very small landing on the nose of the ridge, with high rock surrounding it, only about 50 ft up from the notch. Another Palau 5 route heads straight up and slightly right Palau from the ramps instead to avoid the main crux. Rope and gear should be mandatory for that. From the small landing on the ridgeline it is possible to free-climb up (and down) 1012 ft for the most difficult portion of the entire hike, working over a slight overhang fairly narrowly (low Class 5) with good holds. Thankfully, the rock is pretty solid here and for most of the N ridge route, Palau as opposed to other areas on the summit block. Above the crux, the climbing remains ultra-steep with much exposure for 25 ft more to a sizable flat spot.
Where is Palau? | Palau Map | Map of Palau Photo Gallery
Nearing the notch under the summit, climbers contemplate the harrowing route.
There are several possibilities to the summit from the flat landing, but working left (SSE) on short traverses very carefully may be best. After more super-steeps (check all holds) the scramble eases only somewhat as you boulder the last stretch enjoyably to the small, but larger than expected, top. The 360-degree views of the Cascades including Three Sisters down S are nothing less than striking! Return by the same route to the N attentively and respectfully after you’ve had your fill.
ELEVATION: 3000 ft, with 400 ft vertical gain DISTANCE: 2Y mi round-trip loop.
DURATION: Around 2 hours round-trip loop with many breaks.
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